Installing the easy peasy-way
Nothing as easy as the installation of a floating oak floor! Are you a skilled DIY'er? Then this is the perfect chore for you! Not very skilled at all? With a little help from a skilful friend this is the right product for you to tackle yourself. By installing a floating floor you can save a packet because there is less overall cost associated with this type of installation. It's not necessary to buy any glue or rent any expensive machines or other utensils. While hiring a professional from our installation service is always an option, it's well worth to consider the benefits by doing the task yourself.
We recommend this installation method because:
- our floor boards are very suitable for installing the floating way: simply adjoin the boards in their tongue and groove connection, this makes it quick and easy to install without any glue even for a less skilled DIY-er.
- it allows the floorboards to expand and shrink (since this product of nature tends to move a little bit during the change of seasons), due to the use of steel clips by leaving a 1,5cm wide gap on each four sides of the floor the pressure can easily be evened out. This method also prevents the boards from bending.
- the floating system enables you to substitute wasted boards caused by e.g. water damage. You can even collect the boards if you intent to move house.
- it is suitable for rooms of all shapes and sizes and all kinds of under-flooring.
How to install the floating way
We always advise to install the floor according to the floating method. This installing technique is not difficult at all:
Step 1: An under floor is placed upon an existing floor of concrete or wood. This is a foam layer which is water resistant and sound dampening.
Step 2: The wooden floor is placed completely loose on top of the foam layer. The tongue- and groove connection keeps the floorboards in place without the usage of glue.
Step 3: The floor is then ‘fixated’ between the walls with steel pressure clips that provide the floor with the right amount of tention to keep it all in place. Again, you won’t be needing any glue at all.
The floating system saves a lot of time and expensive installing expenses. Furthermore, because of this floating method the floor can move optimally. A solid oak floor will always expand and/or shrink because of the changes in humidity and temperature.
The floating system also enables you to correct to the floor when there is partial (water)damage or when the floorboards tend to bend due to humidity or temperature discrepancies. This is not possible when you have glued or screwed the floorboards. Besides, your floor is also transportable.
We use a foam under-floor as underlayment underneath the floorboards on top of your concrete or wooden floor. This under-floor is water-resistant and soundbreaking. Please, always inform us about your situation.
Before you place the under floor you have to make sure all dust and dirt is removed. Of course, the existing floor has to be evened out. Humps of only a few millimetres will be moderated by the foam under floor, however a second layer of under floor is needed when the humps are larger. As described above, this is a simple foam layer which is water resistant and attenuates sound. It is easily applied and can be attached to the next role with its adhesive strip. If this doesn’t give the required result, then you will have to level the underconstruction with either OSB-boards or you will have to use a floor levelling compound from you local DIY-store.
When you have floor heating we advise a special thermosound under floor, which allows the heat come through properly and a lot quicker than our regular under floor.
Wood needs space to move. This is the main reason the entire floor has to be laid approximately 1,5cm off the wall. Battens of timber of approximately 1.5cm give the best result as they leave a nice gap in between wall and floorboard. Steel tension clips are placed inside the gap after installing the floor. These clips ensure the entire floor is under the right amount of pressure from all sides.
Place a steel clip on every 60-70cm on the length sides of the floor. The rest of the steel clips are divided over end sides of the floor, always placing them on the joint between the boards. Do not remove the battens before placing the steel clips.
Finishing your floor with matiching skirtingboards and profiles.
You can cover the gap filled with steel clips with matching solid oak skirting boards. For your convenience we always calculate an estimated number of skirting boards for you when you apply for a free quote. It is very important to re-measure the number of metres you’ll be needing in the end.
We also offer a wide range of mdf-skirting boards, flat skirting boards, veneer skirting boards and lots of other accessories to complete the desired effect on your hardwood floor.